Coastal Geomorphology

From GeoClasses

Coastal geomorphology is primarily determined by the action of water and the lithology of the coastline. Hard rocks tend to form a headland/cove type of coastline, while sedimentary coasts tend to produce beaches and sandy features dominated by longshore drift, or in protected areas, swamps.

Waves

• Wave description: Definition of wavelength, amplitude, wave height.
• Generation of waves

Wave behaviour and landforms

• Wave refraction
  • Headlands and bays
  • Coastal straightening
• Longshore drift
  • Sand bars
  • Spits
  • Tidal lagoons

• Barrier islands

• Coral islands

• Terraces

Human interaction with the coastline

• Defences
  • Sea wall
  • Jettys and goines

• Barrier islands